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Message-ID: <>
From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: alt.rv.pop-up-trailers,alt.rv,rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Propane extend a flow hoses
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 12:04:26 -0500

"Fred in AZĀ¤" wrote:
> If ya feel compelled to use "certified" gas rated hoses and
> couplings/ have a 25 foot length of hose fabricated is going to cost
> you a bundle.....
> If ya want to use hoses and couplings that are rated at a higher PSI and are
> essentially of the same design as "gas" hoses and couplings.......
> Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy pnuematic hoses and couplings (the kind used
> with air compressors) and design you own "extend-a-flow"......we have tap into
> our MH propane system..........we run a barbeque grill, a fish cooker and a
> propane camping stove off of a 50ft pnuematic hose with a fabricated
> "manifold" so that we can run three applliances simultaneously over by the
> picnic table!!

I do the same thing.  Most any hose will work on the low pressure side.  At
tank pressure, one has to be a bit more careful.  Propane is a pretty good
solvent for PVC and a few other polymers.  It will fairly quickly soften and
blow out the el-cheapo chinese made PVC air hoses.  Just ask me how I know.
:-)  The red rubber, or better yet, neoprene hose works just fine.


From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Propane overcharges?
Message-ID: <>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 13:33:35 -0400

On 03 Sep 2002 14:37:45 GMT, (JDavis1277) wrote:

>Would it be possible to get a 40 gallon propane tank, have it filled, then xfer
>the propane to the MH tank?  You know, by elevating the tank above the MH tank
>and inverting it.  Sorta like freon?
>Don't know if it's practical, legal, or otherwise.... but it may be worth a

Both practical and legal.  A lot of low volume industrial/commercial users do
that.  That's what I do here, only with a 500 gallon tank.  You can get a
stationary propane tank fitted with what is called a "wet leg" or liquid
withdrawal line.  One of the fittings on the tank has a dip tube that extends
to the bottom of the tank, intended for draining the tank prior to moving it.
A mating connector, a valve and a length of hose with a POL fitting is all
that is needed.

No need to elevate the tank.  The pressure difference between the supply tank
and the filling tank (with the overfill bleed open) drives the propane just
fine, even up hill.  It takes about twice as long to fill a tank this way as
at a pumped fill station but who's counting?

It works even better if the supply tank is warmer, even a couple of degrees,
than the filling tank.  I used to have a heating blanket on my 500 gal tank
that would raise the temperature 4 or 5 degrees above ambient for winter
filling.  Then I realized that I could let Mr. Sol do the job.  I painted a
square of flat black paint on the southern side of my tank.  That did the
trick, even in the dead of winter.  Only a few square feet of black is needed
- do NOT paint the whole tank or else it will lift the safety in the summer!

I had my tank filled about a month ago.  The summer rate was $0.89/gallon.
That compares quite favorably with the ~$1.50/gal at the local Flying J or the
$2/gal the local propane dealers charge.  I can fill my RV's tank, run the
fire starter in my BBQ pit at my restaurant and run my neon fires all year on
that 500 gallons.


From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Question on Propane valve
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 03:57:53 -0500
Message-ID: <>

As long as the liquid discharge stops, there should be no problem.  You
might take the tank out in the yard and vent it a little just to be sure.
Most likely the guy filled the tank to 80% with cold propane.  When it
warmed up it expanded.  That's the usual cause of liquid spitting.

Your regulator can handle a little liquid.  If very much liquid reaches
the regulator, the refrigeration effect will chill the diaphragm until it
becomes rigid.  System overpressure and liquid expulsion out the regulator
vent results.


On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 19:51:14 -0800, "Michael" <>

>I am new to RV. I had the propane take filled to the 80% level as
>recommended. When I turn on the valve from the propane tank it drips
>propane. Is this normal? It seems to stop within about 15 to 20 seconds. All
>the applicances work properly but it worries me.
>Any help would easy my mind.

From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Propane smell problem
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 19:39:20 -0400
Message-ID: <>

On 7 Jul 2008 19:25:02 -0500, nothermark <> wrote:

>I have a propane odor (I know, it's the odorant) around the MH.  We
>are also a bit down on propane but there may be other reasons for
>that.  I have not messed with any of the piping yet.  I'm about to go
>do the soapy water bit but i was wondering if there were any less than
>obvious places I should be looking at.  Any thoughts appreciated.

You're probably just out of gas.  For some reason, yet to be explained
satisfactorily to me, when the liquid propane is gone and only a little
pressure remains, odorant seems to always seep out.  My system always emits an
odor when the tank runs dry.  My regulator and tank valve are too close
together to separate out where the stink is coming from but it's always in
that vicinity.

Get your tank filled and then give it a good washing to get rid of the spooge
left by the 80% valve before getting out the leak detecting big guns.


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