From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Food + Windex = ACCKK Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 03:02:01 EDT Newsgroups: rec.food.restaurants DeeDeeJMS wrote: > > Really, when you get right down to it, that's just plain rude and ignorant. > Where are the managers to steer these servers in the right direction? We use > Murphy's Oil diluted (VERY diluted) on our table tops, and only at the end of > the night, when we're closing up. Even if there is a customer in the vicinity > (lingerers...) they've never complained. I actually like the smell. Ummm, at the risk of setting you off on another name calling tirade, I gotta ask, where is your FDA/health department/HAACP required sanitizer in this scheme? A wrong answer is "murphy's oil soap". Acceptable answers are: 1. 100 ppm available chlorine solution (commonly bleach or chlorinated detergent) 2. iodine sanitize. 3. Proprietary sanitizer approved for the purpose. Note to restaurant customers: 100 PPM bleach solution has no odor unless the towel is crammed against the nose. It will not discolor clothing. One of the hardest things I've had to do is to get the servers to actually use the bleach measure when making up a batch of sanitizing solution. They seem to believe that unless noxious green clouds are coming up from the tray that it isn't working. If your server/busser/etc wipes your table with an aforementioned green-cloud-emitting towel, you might want to suggest to the manager that he teach his people how not to wage gas warfare on his customers. Note #2 to customers: Both the FDA and good practice require that wiping towels be stored in sanitizing solution between uses. If you see a rag laying around or worse, hanging out of someone's hip pocket, SAY SOMETHING TO THE MANAGER! The unsanitized rag has been conclusively identified as one of the worst disease vectors in a restaurant. Without the sanitizer, all the rag does is smear around the snot boogers from the previous customer! I've fired more than one "old school" cook who insisted that the hip-pocket rag was an integral part of the cook's uniform. From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Sanitizing Freshwater Tank Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 19:34:13 EDT Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel Eric B wrote: > Forget all that crap, just dump 1/2 cup of ol' fashioned clorox (don't > use the new scented stuff, your water will taste like crap), fill the > tank about halfway. Then drive around the block, park and let it set at > least 30 minutes. Drain, rinse once, refill with fresh the next time > you go out. BTW, the official directions (per the Army) for water > purification of drinking water with Clorox is 1 drop per gallon of > water. I don't like the taste so I just put in the half cup as above > then drain. Yup, and if you want to get rid of the chlorine taste REAL fast, put a few drops of sodium thiosulfate (photographic fixer solution) in the tank. Then drain and fill. Incidentally, fixer solution is handy to keep around to kill that awful bleach smell on your hands after you get it on them. A little splash and viola!!! no stink. John From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Sanitizing Freshwater Tank Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 01:09:32 EDT Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel LOCOMOTIVE2506 wrote: > Thanks John and you other folks for this thread. It is important and hard to > find data on. So, 8 oz of bleach should do my 100 gal tank if I read your > formula right. Should be about right if you don't have anything to kill the chlorine. When I sanitize my tank, I walk into the restaurant and get a test strip. I run the chlorinated water through the system and put the test strip in the stream. If it turns black enough, I'm done. If not, I'll add a little more bleach. Since I park the MH beside the restaurant and since I'm required by law to keep these strips in the place, that's no big deal. This way, I take into account anything that might consume the chlorine. You might consider getting the strips. Look in the phone book for restaurant supply companies. They're very cheap - only a couple of bux for a package of 100. Why do I care how much chlorine I use? Because it is very destructive to the rubber used in my pump, fixtures and so on. It can act surprisingly fast. I have an on-demand, tankless water heater in the restaurant. I brought it with me from Atlanta after ~8 years of service there. In less than six months, the water here ate the regulating diaphragm out. I now put a new diaphragm in every 6-9 months. Our "if some is good, more is better" local water utility loads up on chlorine but they do not supply anywhere near 300 ppm. My RV's pump is exposed to all the utility's chlorine PLUS the sanitizing solution. Why push things when I can just as easily measure and see how much chlorine I'm dealing with? Then there's the issue of how much work it is to get rid of the chlorine taste if I were to really load up on bleach. In the 300 PPM range, there is only a slight odor and some taste. Assuming I get the tank almost completely empty when I drain it, draining and refilling will dilute that chlorine at least 100:1 which means that it is practically undetectable by smell or taste. saves me a lot of work in the end. BTW, if you really don't like the smell/taste of chlorine, there is an iodine based FDA approved sanitizer available. It's called (I can't even start to spell this right) quartentary iodine sanitizer or just "red sanitizer". It's more expensive than bleach but it is used in much lower concentrations. Test strips are available. Best of all, it smells/tastes like peppermint. We keep it around the restaurant for people who don't like bleach. Also available from restaurant supply companies. Cost is about about $8 a gallon. Takes about a capful to a gallon of water to turn the test strip. John |