Date: Fri Oct 9 13:31:19 1992 Subject: Storing the Z for Winter To: z-car@dixie.com Well, we have frost up here in Canada, and the weather can get damn cold some days. It won't be long before we start seeing the road freeze at night, and a few flakes falling from the sky. It's about time to start thinking of storing my Z. Question is: What should I do before storing it, and during it's storage to make it an enjoyable experiance for my Z? I plan on putting it out of the way in my yard, and covering it with a tarp. On the nicer days, I plan on moving it a little bit, so the tires do not stay in the same location for 6 months, and develop a bulge. (Was also thinking of putting it on blocks, but we live on a lake, and get some STRONG gusts of wind during winter.. almost enough to knock my jacked up Z down) I've heard that running the engine once a week, and having good clean oil in the engine before storage is a must. I'd also imagine it would be a good time to make sure there is no water in the Brake Lines, or in the fuel lines. Anything else I should know? Any common myths? [yeah, running the engine while on blocks is a bad myth. You won't be able to run it long enough to fully warm the oil which means corrosive combustion products will condense and mix with the oil. You'd be setting up the same conditions as exist in cars "driven by little old ladies to the store and back", ie, ideal conditions for sludge to form. I've stored engines literally for years with no more precautions than making sure it was good and hot when turned off. If you're really paranoid, pull the plugs and hose each cylinder with something like CLP Breakfree or LPS. You could even replace the plugs with some of those anti-corrosive vapor emitters sold out of some catalogs. I've never done it and don't see the need. Just run the car until thoroughly hot, pull it in the storage area, kill the engine, drain the carbs if you have 'em, pull the battery and take it inside, make sure the antifreeze is good and cover 'er up. I'd also put it on blocks. Ain't no way any wind that can't tip the car over is going to blow it off cement blocks. JGD] Date: Mon Apr 18 18:47:17 1994 Subject: Re: Z storage From: emory!netcom.com!bworley (Bob Worley) > >I would think that you would want to keep the tank full to reduce > >condensation and rust. > > I concur. This is SOP for winterizing boats around here. > If you are storing for a year or more, then you may want to re-think > that though. > > > I personally would not bother with anything else for 4 months. You > might want to put the battery on a trickle charge, overinflate the > tires, and do something to prevent mildew in the interior. > > ---------- > Posted by: emory!mech.seas.upenn.edu!george (George) This thread now has *me* concerned. I took my '78 280Z off the road last July (10 months ago) to do a very thorough body/interior restoration, but I left the drivetrain intact. I have only driven the car in/out of the garage and around the block a few times to keep it lubed. (Hey, no doors, rear hatch or windscreen - but boy is it light and fast! ;) ) Anyway, I have a minimum amout of fuel in it - probably almost dry by now. The only other thing I've done is disconnect the battery when not in use. Should I be concerned? It still runs great, btw. _______________________________________________________________________ Bob Worley Z Club of Texas member #510 bworley@netcom.com 1978 280Z - Bad BoyZ #15 The Z Club of Texas - IZCC member #88 ___________________The *Largest* Z-car Club in Texas!__________________ [Yes. I've stored my Z several times, once for almost 3 years. The ONLY thing I do is fill the tank, remove the battery and block the wheels up so the tires won't flat-side. Over the 3 year storage term, some of the gas evaporated and the exposed part of the tank rusted and the rust required me to remove the tank and very extensively flush it. A major job. If I ever had to store the car again, I think I'd probably fill the tank with either kerosene or diesel fuel which wouldn't evaporate and with an anti-fungal additive. All you need is a couple of cool-hot temperature cycles for air and humidity to enter the tank and initiate rust. JGD] From: John De Armond Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel Subject: Re: STABIL was changing Onan engine Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:14:29 -0400 HHamp5246 wrote: > > I wondered about my new mowers.... shouldn't I run them out of gas for the > winter? My practice: 4-strokes: Run the carb dry, fill the gas tank full, add Stabil, cap tightly. 2-strokes: Empty tank except for a little gas, add Stabil, run long enough to get the Stabil in the carb, drain all gas, run carb dry, cap tank tightly. The difference in practice with 2-strokes is because even Stabil can't properly preserve the oil/gas mix or prevent carb diaphragm damage. My 2nd, backup generator has Stabil'd gas going on 3 years old in the tank. It cranks and runs fine each time I test it. Stabil works. But nothing will protect from the sludge/varnish that results from a tank of gas slowly evaporating out of the carb float bowl. From: John De Armond Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel Subject: Re: filler up? or leave er empty? Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 13:23:08 -0400 Fill it to the top and Sta-Bil it. If you leave the tank partially filled, the normal daily heating and cooling cycle will pull moisture laden air in during conditions of high humidity. This water will collect on the tank walls, causing rust and will eventually collect in the bottom of the tank. Tank condensation is the bane of us old car nuts who tend to store cars for long periods of time. Ron Weisskopf wrote: > > I will be taking my class A away to the 4H barns for winter storage soon. > What is the general opinion for fuel tanks in storage (5 months). Fill em up > and add appropriate amounts of stabilizer or leave them empty as possible? > Ron |