From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Honda EU3000 modification questions
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:46:57 -0500
Message-ID: <m5e2rvs590fqjo27kae26lvchlaoadoeli@4ax.com>

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 08:30:31 -0700, mts <mts@ren-prod-incNOSPAM.com> wrote:


>When the sun streams in where I live, if I'm real lucky it gets less
>cold <g>.  Gotta have a remote start for the new generator, it beats
>the heck out of going out in the middle of the night and fooling
>around.

Here's something to think about.  Install a car wireless remote starter.  Then
you can crank the genny from anywhere the keyring transmitter can reach.

I use this one, the Bulldog Model #RS114 remote starter:

http://tinyurl.com/ukwc

IT works very well for cranking a generator.  It turns on the ignition about 5
seconds before activating the starter.  If you need a fuel pump to pull fuel
from the vehicle tank, this period can serve as the prime cycle.  It makes up
to 3 attempts.  It judges engine start either from a tach signal or from the
rise in battery voltage when the alternator kicks in.  It has a brake light
input that serves as a tamper switch to kill the engine if the brakes are
touched.  You could put a switch on the bottom of the genny to kill it and
lock it out if anyone tried to move it.  It can use several remotes, up to 6,
if I recall correctly.

One other nice feature.  It contains a temperature sensor.  You can program
the controller to automatically crank the engine and run it for a programmed
period of time when the temperature drops to a certain level.  This could be
very handy if you had to leave the rig unattended in freezing weather and
didn't want to burn up your propane.

I use one of these starters on my concession trailer generator.  I frequently
overload this generator and it trips on over-temperature.  I usually have it
on the other end of a 100 ft long cord to get the noise away from the
operation.  Nice to just push a button on a key fob to restart instead of
having to hike out there.

The only complication is if you have to apply a manual choke.  My generator
requires that.  I rigged up a solenoid, a thermostat and a time delay relay so
that the choke is activated for 2 seconds when the starter motor is energized
if the engine is not hot.  I think the honda is automatic but if it isn't,
there is a workaround.

I'm currently constructing a 10kw diesel generator for the same application.
It will also get a remote starter.

On the EU3000 you could mount the small control box under a cover or perhaps
on the outside if there's no room.  It will run from the EU's cranking battery
so the whole thing can be self-contained.


>Gotta have a quick-disconnect fuel line, no fun going out in
>the middle of the night and pouring gas into the standard tank and
>maybe on your leg or something.  Us lazy folks sure do a lot of extra
>work, huh?

Yup.  I just go to the local boat store and buy mating connectors.  I happen
to use an Evenrude connector but most any will work.  You can get the hose
with connector and priming bulb very cheaply at WallyWorld.

John

From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Honda EU3000 modification questions
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 17:24:02 -0500
Message-ID: <76n2rv4c1mokuhntn16idsquj84at95snh@4ax.com>

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 13:19:53 -0700, mts <mts@ren-prod-incNOSPAM.com> wrote:


>>I use this one, the Bulldog Model #RS114 remote starter:
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/ukwc
>
>Thanks NJ.  Why did you choose this particular one over others of
>similar functionality, or is it the one with the best functions?

Because at $49, it is the cheapest brand name remote starter that I know of.
That's what got me to buy it originally.  After gaining experience, I
appreciate all the extra functionality such as being able to add remotes at
will.  It has outputs to operate the door locks and an output to pop the
trunk.  These can be used for other applications.  On my MH, for example, I
use the trunk signal to turn on my outside lights.  You could use the signal
to run the fuel pump for an extended prime cycle, for example.


>I'd love to hook one of these to the rear tank of my tow vehicle, but
>it has an integrated electric fuel pump and gage sensor, so all fuel
>that comes out of the tank has to be sucked through the electric pump.
>To add it I'd need to take the tank off and braze on a fitting; not a
>major deal except that "take the tank off" is nontrivial and has to be
>matched by a "put the tank on" effort as well.  (I assume that TomJ
>will be by presently to explain to me all the hazards of welding a gas
>tank, LOL)  Anyway I'm going to try and find a larger tank that might
>be mountable on the tongue along with the propane cylinders, may as
>well make sure there's plenty of combustibles available, right?  <g>

Why don't you simply tap into the existing fuel line.  On an EFI system, the
fuel rail will have from 15 to about 40 psi of pressure at more than ample
volume.  You can tap in and run the fuel through a low pressure regulator
(check Summit Racing, JEG, etc. About $30) to your quick-connect.

Since MOST new vehicles now use a turbine-type in-tank fuel pump, there should
be no problem pumping through the stopped pump.  You could even run a wire
along with the quick-connect to energize the in-tank pump from the generator
supply voltage.  A pair of diodes would keep power from feeding back to the
ECM and vice versa.

There are several other possibilities.  One way is to access the tank via the
filler tube.  On most tanks, the filler attaches via a rubber flex section.
You can take the filler tube out, attach a fitting down toward the tank end of
the filler tube with enough length to reach down in the tank and then replace
the filler.  That way you don't have to mess with the tank.

Yet another method is to use a punch to punch a hole in the top of the tank
(empty, of course), screw in a fitting with a tube to extend down into the
tank and epoxy it in place.  The fitting threads will bite into the sheet
metal enough to hold it in place and the epoxy makes it strong and fuel-tight.
The punch leaves no chips and it raises a burr that the fitting can bite into.

I did the above technique on my 68 Fury over 15 years ago and it's still
holding tight.  I could access the top of the tank through a small hatch.
Removing that 35 gallon tank would have been a nu yawk bitch.  I made the
above tap and installed an electric fuel  pump, along with some tubing so that
I could fill my lawn mower or portable tank without having to siphon.

I just drilled out a compression fitting so the appropriate sized steel brake
line would protrude out the bottom of the fitting.  I epoxied the fitting in
place, inserted the tube to just above the bottom of the tank and compressed
the ferrule to hold it in place.

>[Yes TJ, I've been trying to kill myself off by doing those oh so
>dangerous things for over 50 years and am still here, talk about
>incompetent huh?]

yeah, me too.  Don't you just pity people who are afraid of things that go
bump in the night?

I just fill the tank with water and position the site at the top for welding.
Easier and safer than trying to inert the tank with nitrogen, CO2 or whatnot.

John